Last week I asked: What is Chicken Choyala? A favorite recipe of Nepal.
Most countries will not allow Americans to visit so the best I can do is to recall my former visits and recreate the recipes for a flavor of the country. Kathmandu, Nepal had been on my “wanna’-visit” list for years. The perfect opportunity arose in March 2017 when John and I were in Kuala Lumpur (better known as KL). Air Asia, an excellent budget Asian airline, flies from KL to Kathmandu for $169 – perfect. For $83 we booked a room at the Hotel Shanker because it was a family owned heritage hotel. The location was excellent and they had a pool and internet. The hotel was in the process of restoring and updating the main lobby that was damaged during the devastating 2015 earthquake but the work didn’t impact the guests. Durbur Square, the historical center, was severely damaged including the iconic 183-year-old Dharahara Tower but there are still many historical buildings and places to visit in Kathmandu and also in Durbur Square.
I like cultural shows especially if they include a meal of traditional food. The hotel tour guide booked us tickets for dinner and a show at Bhojan Griha, in a renovated four-story building that originally belonged to the royal priest of the king of Nepal. Dinner and the music were reflective of several ethnic Nepalese groups. The low tables with floor chairs and brass tableware were typical Nepalese. The next day the hotel guide wanted to know how the dinner went and what we liked best. We said we were very pleased with everything, loved the music, costumes, and especially enjoyed the chicken choyala. He said it was easy to make and he was sure the Hotel Shanker’s chef would give us the recipe. I have found that chefs, while essential to the success of a restaurant, seldom get the applause they deserve and are happy when people inquire about their dishes.
The Hotel Shanker’s executive chef, Keshab Ram Shrestha, agreed to meet me after breakfast the next day in the dining room which had a show kitchen and share his recipe. The staff gathered around to watch and seemed to enjoy the diversion just as much as I did.
The dish is a typical Newari dish that is found at all festivals. It can be served as a meal or an appetizer. The Newari are the historic inhabitants of the Kathmandu Valley and considered the originators of the history and culture of the area. Originally choyala was made from spiced grilled water buffalo meat. Nowadays any meat can be used including chicken, duck, or mutton and the spiciness can be adjusted to taste. It is usually served with rice.
Chicken Choyala
- 1/2 tsp mustard oil
- 1 lb boneless chicken cut into cubes
- 1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder
- 1/2 tsp fenugreek
- 1 tsp chili powder
- 1 tsp cumin powder
- 1/2 tsp garlic and ginger paste
- 1/2 tsp lemon juice
- Salt as desired
- Fresh cilantro for garnish
Heat oil in a pan. Add chicken; fry for about two minutes add turmeric and fenugreek continue frying until it is golden brown then remove to a bowl. To the chicken add chili, cumin, garlic and ginger paste, and lemon juice. Salt if needed. Mix well until the chicken is well coated. The chef said he usually pounds it a little with his fist to make the taste more even. Garnish with cilantro and serve with rice.
Travel Trivia Tease™: Where is a great family getaway south of Syracuse?
Look for the answer next week.
